The First of March; and life on tour

1 March, 2010. Universitatea de Nord din Baia Mare, camera șase, cāminul trei.

Happy First of March to everyone. March 1st is celebrated by Romanians, in sense, as the cultural beginning of Spring. And the weather over the last week has certainly supported this sense. Winter would appear to be nearing an end quickly in these parts....

I began my "Canadian Leadership Lecture Tour" last week.... 
 [With apologies to Bob Seger...] 


On a long and lonesome railway,
East of Oradea
You can listen to the engines
Moanin' out it's one old song
You can think about the woman,
Or the girl in class the night before
But your thoughts will soon be wanderin',
The way they always do
When you're ridin' 16 hours,
And there's nothin' much to do
And you don't feel much like writin',
You just wish the trip was through.... 
 
Here I am, on the rails again,
There I am, up front the class,
There I go, playin' lecturer again,
There I go, turn the page.

Seriously, I'm no rock star. But maybe I can now begin to understand some of the emotional/social ups and downs of touring. 'Cause dang, train trips through Romania are long and lonesome!!  :-) 

I completed my first lecture dates (gigs, if you will) last week in Bucuresti (Bucharest) at the Embassy of Canada and the University of Bucharest. I consider both to have been a success, particularly my talk at the Embassy, which was attended by members of the NGO community who work with Romani (Gypsy) populations and the assistant to at least one Parliamentarian. I spoke on "Native-Newcomer Relations" in Canada, focusing on the historical and contemporary experiences of assimilation, integration, and accommodation. Although the historical experiences of Native people in Canada and Romani people in Romania are very, very different, their contemporary treatment and situation are much the same.  I learned a lot through the course of preparing this talk and from the responses of my audience. I was pleased to learn that Embassy staff also considered my talk a "success."  My audience at the University was more informal, consisting mainly of graduate students with an interest in Canadian Studies. I spoke with them on the subject of "Romanian-Canadian Relations."

Bucharest itself was a welcome change of scenery for me (until now I have been confined in my Romanian experiences largely to Baia Mare and the Maramures region). Although I did not have a lot of free time, I was able to maximize the little I had with the help of some very hospitable locals (thank-you to Marilena D. for putting me in touch with Raluca S. and Ramona D., and to Professor Bottez for securing the help of Andreea-Catrinela L.). Each helped me to see and understand a little of Bucharest, for which I am very grateful.  In terms of typical tourist stuff, I hit the "must sees": the Palace of Parliament, and parts of the Old City. Bucharest is somewhat reminiscent of Paris, a major exception being the hoards of stray dogs (a factor throughout Romania, but particularly prevalent in Bucharest). The strays don't appear to be at all dangerous, and in fact I was struck by their above-average canine intelligence. I guess if you're a dog in the big city, only the smartest will survive -- I laughed out loud at one particular stray that was clever enough to use the pedestrian underpass at a busy intersection... how many pet dogs would think of that on their own?!

On my trip down and back to Bucharest (from Baia Mare, by train) I had lots of time to think and observe. Traveling through the centre of Romania, north to south (and back again), by train is an interesting experience, as I could observe the varied landscapes and geography of the country.  One unfortunate commonality throughout this (otherwise beautiful) varied landscape, is the over abundance of strewn garbage and plastic bottles that clearly plague this country.  Romania, from my point of view, has a very serious litter and waste problem on their hands -- particularly the plastic bottles, the predominance of which simply blow my mind.  Find a way to make money off of carelessly discarded plastic bottles in this country, and you will very, very quickly be a very, very rich person. This is a problem that needs to be addressed seriously. And fast. Plastic, after all, isn't going anywhere fast, and the number of discarded bottles here appears to be growing by the minute. I wish I'd taken some photos to get the point across of just how prevalent these bottles are.  It's a real shame.

I depart for Iaşi in the morning, again by train. 
Here I go, turn the page.

Goin' on Tour

19 February, 2010. Universitatea de Nord din Baia Mare, camera șase, cāminul trei.

Canadian Leadership Lecture Tour* in select Romanian cities on:                                                                     

"Canadian-Romanian Relations" and "Native-Newcomer Relations in Canada"
 

February-April, 2010 

Confirmed  Dates    

February 

22-23    BUCUREŞTI
                  Embassy of Canada
                  University of Bucharest
 

March
 2-3       IAŞI
                           Al. I. Cuza Universiity
 

16-17    CLUJ-NAPOCA
                  Babes-Bolyai University
 

22-23    ORADEA
                  University of Oradea
                  Universitatea Creştină Partium  

29-30   SUCEAVA
                 Stefan cel Mare University
 

April 

12-13   TIMIŞOARA
                 Universitǎții de Vest

*Made possible through funding from the Canadian Leadership Grant programme, Embassy of Canada-Bucharest and DFAIT Canada.

2010 Developments

10 January, 2010. Universitatea de Nord din Baia Mare, camera șase, cāminul trei. 


Un an nou fericit ("Happy New Year," in Romanian).  Belated holiday greetings to one and all.

I spent the xmas and new year holiday in Slovakia, mainly in Trnava (but also in Brno, Czech Republic, and Trenciankse Teplice, Bratislava, and Banska Bystrica, Slovakia).  My decision to step outside of Romania over the holiday was motivated/necessitated by three reasons:

(1) my circle of friends in Slovakia is much larger than the group of folks (mostly students) I know in Romania, and three weeks is a long time to spend mostly alone;
(2) I couldn't afford financially to go back to Canada for the holiday, since I made the decision to return and finish my teaching responsibilities in Baia Mare in the new year (airfare was just too expensive); and
(3) although my ICCS Fellowship is now officially finished, and all monies have dried up, (as mentioned) I decided to stay-on in Romania until at least the end of January so as to not leave my students hanging. With my 90 legal days as a visitor in Romania quickly drying up, I needed to step outside the country so as to "bank" my remaining 20 legal days (or thereabouts). 

So, Slovakia was the closest, and most logical choice (I still consider that country my "second home" after all). My time there was relaxing and enjoyable, with time enough to read for pleasure and visit old friends. 

Development #1

Over the holiday I learned that my application for a Canadian Leadership Grant was successful. This means that I will be staying-on in Romania in some capacity at the Canadian Studies Centre in Baia Mare, and I'll also be doing a "lecture tour" of select Romanian cities and universities with Canadian Studies programmes. The Canadian Leadership Grant is through the Canadian Embassy in Bucharest and DFAIT in Ottawa.  My lecture dates have not yet been finalised, but this should keep me in Romania until April, or thereabouts.

Development #2

I returned to Baia Mare less than a week ago.  Upon opening the door to my dorm room I was met with a nearly overwhelming wave of heat.  Without exageration, it felt like a sauna. I am guessing, but the temperature inside must have been 50 degrees celsius or more (I don't control the heat, by the way).  As any logical individual might do, I quickly moved to open my window. Expecting a cool, fresh breeze, I was instead greeted by an unpleasant stench.  Although it was dark outside, I could see (and certainly smell) a cesspool of sewage forming just outside my window.  It's now been four days, and it seems I am the only person aware of this unpleasant development (have other people not noticed it? It's rather obvious in sight and smell).  With my almost non-existent Romanian I intend to try to alert the Administrator of the dormitory tomorrow (even though her office is just two doors down from mine, it seems she hasn't taken notice).

This development brings a whole new meaning to the modern linguistic meaning (so I have been told, before the appearance of the cesspool) of "Baia Mare." In old, proper Romanian, the name means "Big Mine," but apparently in modern Romanian (slang?) usage, it translates to something like "Big Bathroom."  I'm afraid my neighbour the cesspool is an all too obvious (but perhaps, coincidental) metaphor.

Sewage scene panoramic
Originally uploaded by Krasny Fotograf

Happy Holidays from Romania

With Raluca
Originally uploaded by Krasny Fotograf

Here I am with one of my students, Raluca, ice skating on the Baia Mare old town square. I'll spend the Christmas holiday in Slovakia (and perhaps Czech Republic) and return to Baia Mare in early January, 2010 :-)

The Music of Romania... or, at least, the music I hear everyday

9 December, 2009. Universitatea de Nord din Baia Mare, camera șase, cāminul trei.

Pretty much everyday since I've arrived in Baia Mare, I've heard/seen a handful of pop songs, played repeatedly. Now, maybe this is because I frequent low-class establishments that play only one channel on their fancy flatscreens: KISS-TV...  regardless of the reason, I think I have heard (or seen the video clips of) the following songs about 100 times each already.... Not all are Romanian artists, but they will forever be entrenched in my mind as part of my Romanian experience.  Prepare to be amazed, haha... (does anyone else notice the common bip-bip-b-bip sound in most?)...

Inna, "Amazing" (I have to admit that after repeated listens and viewings, I might actually like this song... see, this is the power of suggestion!!!)


Roller Sis, "Se Thelo" (oh no, this song has grown on me too, and I don't even like this kind of music!!)


Puya, "Change" (this song is one that I definately DO NOT like... and it might have been the unofficial song to the recent Romanian elections, considering its attitude of complacency... or are they saying "I CAN change the world..."  I can't tell...)


Connect-R, "Burning Love" (this one drives me crazy...  never have I heard or seen a song so original... I mean, the opposition of fire and ice in relation to love... revolutionary! haha -- Hey, he's Black AND he's Romanian... that's recipe enough for celebrity status, isn't it?)


Deepcentral, "Russian Girl" (this video clip is so amazing that "embedding [has been] disabled by request"...  This was probably the first song to begin driving me over the edge.... certainly one of the most over-played...)

Dan Balan, "Chica Bomb" (this video clip may be the closest thing to pornography I've seen on mainstream television....  And Mr. Balan's gaze, my goodness, enough to give me a serious case of the willies!)

Radio Killer, "Voila" (a seriously strange music video, and an incredibly annoying song...)

Pitbull, "I Know You Want Me" (yes, indeed, Mr. Pitbull... you have read my mind.  Never have I lusted for another man like I lust for you....)

With members of the First-Year MA Class at Mogoşa

6 December, 2009. Universitatea de Nord din Baia Mare, camera șase, cāminul trei.


With members of the First-Year MA Class at Mogosa
Originally uploaded by Krasny Fotograf

The First-Year MA students persuaded me to join them on a little field trip to Mogoşa, one of the bigger hills/mountains in the Eastern Carpati region near Baia Mare. It was cold and foggy, so I couldn't fully grasp the height of Mogoşa. This is a popular ski resort in the Winter.

Her Questions, My Answers...

2 December, 2009. Universitatea de Nord din Baia Mare, camera șase, cāminul trei.

A student recently presented me with a questionnaire as part of her interest in "Romanian-Canadian" relations and "Romania seen through the eyes of a Canadian."  These are my responses....

Background Information 

1.      Please specify the purpose of travel to Romania. 
First trip: To participate in a student conference on Canadian Studies at Universitatea de Nord din Baia Mare (April, 2008) 

Second trip: To undertake an ICCS Postdoctoral Teaching Fellowship at the Canadian Studies Centre, Universitatea de Nord din Baia Mare (October-December, 2009) 

2.      Please specify the period of your stay in Romania. 
First trip: Approximately 1 week 

Second trip: Approximately 3 months (to date) 

3.       What crossed your mind first when you heard about the country?  
 I don’t recall when I “first heard” about Romania. Probably as a schoolboy, but I don’t know what my first thoughts were…  It was the 1980s, so probably something to do with Communism, or “Eastern Europe,” as this is mainly what we were taught/told. 

4.      What did you know about the country before your visit? (any kind of cultural information, like music, arts, sports, tourism, food, science, literature, geography etc)  
 I knew embarrassingly little (refer to my interview in Bibliotheca Septentrionalis, Spring, 2008 – copy available at the Canadian Studies Centre), except that it was a “post-Communist” country in Europe. Probably I knew about Nadia Comaneci, and was vaguely aware that Transylvania (and Dracula) were related to Romania. 

5.      What was your main reliable source of information about Romania? 
Reliable?  Good question.  Other than the internet, and word-of-mouth from friends in Slovakia, I had only a copy of Romania & Moldova. Robert Reid and Leif Pettersen. (Lonely Planet, 2007).  Oh, and of course I expected to meet the people I saw in the film Borat – even though they pretended to be Kazaks. I’ve been disappointed so far in that I haven’t found a similar bathing suit to that worn by the main character in that film. 

I also watched the films Transylvania (2006) and 4 Months, 3 Weeks, 2 Days (2007) before my second trip to Romania. 

6.      What are the general opinions regarding this country in the eyes of the people from your country of origin? 
I can’t say specifically, but generally I would say most Canadians lump Romania together with other “post-Communist” European nations.  Exceptions would be Canadians with Romanian relatives or travel experiences, of course, but before coming here I do not recall hearing opinions from such people (unfortunately). 

7.      Are there any stereotypes in your country of origin about Romania or Romanian people? If yes, please state them. 
“They were Communists, right?”  “Is it safe their?”  “Do they speak Russian?”  “Be careful one of the girls doesn’t try to marry you so she can get Canadian citizenship.” 

8.      Did some of them/all of them turn out to be true? Please give details.  
Yes, I have had several marriage proposals here (j/k). Well, as it turns out, Romania IS a “post-Communist” country, but I haven’t heard any Russian language here :-) And if hitchhiking is any indication, maybe Romanian is “safer” than Canada…. 

9.      How long did it take for you to get used with the idea of 'living/ moving to Romania?' 
Maybe I’m still not used to it, although I think I “adapt” pretty easily. 

10.  Did you get support from your relatives or friends regarding the idea of moving / living in Romania? 
Some of them expressed surprise, but also asked a lot of questions, like, “what is it like there?” 
 
Social Relations in Romania 

1.      Do/did you get family or friends visit you during your stay in Romania? 
No family.  One friend (from Slovakia). No Canadian visitors. 

2.      Did Romania meet your expectations? Please support your answer.  
Yes, and no.  I try not to come to a new place with too many expectations. But, of course, some are inevitable and impossible to suppress.  Having been to other neighbouring countries in the past (Hungary, Slovakia, etc.), I had some expectations regarding architecture, landscape, and city planning, for example. I can say that these were generally correct, although “blocks of flats” in Romania are a little different than those that I’ve seen in Hungary and Slovakia, for example.  I guess most of my expectations relate to the history of Communism and the general exclusion of outsiders for much of the 20^th century, which of course have left considerable traces on several countries in this part of Europe (visually and culturally). 

One thing that has surprised me, has been the degree to which the citizens of Baia Mare (at least) are apparently quite religiously and socially conservative.  Of course, this is just my largely superficial “sense” of the people I have encountered to date.  North Americans generally view “Europe” as more open and liberal in many regards, but I do not feel I’ve seen much in terms of “liberalism” here.  In fact, I feel I have to censor myself so as to not offend “Romanian” sensibilities. This leads me to wonder about “freedom” twenty years after the political revolution here. 

But I am still learning, and my “expectations” may be met yet ;-) 

3.      What more did you learn about this country during your period of stay? 
I am still learning.  But to-date I have learned something about the geography of the Maramures district, made many observations with regard to architecture, food, and general Romanian behaviour.  I have learned that I do not “look like” a Romanian (nor think like one, apparently); the language has begun to “sound” somewhat familiar to me (although I do not understand much); I have learned about the frustrations of the education system here; get the general sense that many Romanians are “fed up” with their politicians (and democracy?) 20 years after the revolution; I have learned to be patient with regard to how “quickly” things get done here; I have learned that Bucharest is a long way from Baia Mare (or, at least this is what people tell me) – and not just geographically.

4.      What was your first impression upon arrival in Romania? 
“Where are the contorting quintuplets?” (j/k).  I was disappointed to see such a scenic city like Baia Mare so badly polluted (the river especially).  On my first visit, when I travelled from Budapest to Baia Mare by minibus, I recall being a little surprised by the relatively “grey” city landscape and dirty streets (but I was also very tired). But I was also pleased to be greeted by some students upon arriving on that visit, and the accommodation I was given at the university was very clean and acceptable.  Similarly, on my second visit, I was met by a friend I’d met on my previous visit at the airport in Cluj. She was very generous in driving me to Dej, with one of her friends, and treating me to a home-cooked meal. She was very careful and attentive in making sure I was comfortable and safely on the right train to Baia Mare.

5.      What was your opinion regarding Romanians before you visited? 
I didn’t have any conscious opinions.  But I’ve since learned that one of my closest neighbours growing-up, “Gramma Rosa” – who I always thought was from Hungary, because she spoke Hungarian – was in fact Romanian (from Satu Mare). She was a little old lady, whose husband had passed-on and children were grown.  She had a huge garden full of fruits and vegetables, including some Rosca grapes (which I loved as a child – see my story). She was a very generous woman (in my memories, at least) who loved our pet cat (“Fonzie”) and would often give him cooked chicken as a “treat.” She always shared her garden’s bounty with us too. 

6.      What is your opinion regarding Romanians after your visit? 
As I’ve said, my opinions are subject to change, but I get a general sense that some people are very laid back, if not indifferent, while others are very friendly and welcoming (to foreigners, for example). I do have the sense that people here (at least in Baia Mare) are more religiously and socially conservative than most of the people I know in Canada and other countries. I wish Romanians took more pride (in their actions) in relation to their own country – in keeping their city environment cleaner, for example. 

7.      Is there a special trait that defines Romanians, in your view?  
 Dark brown or black hair; tight jeans on women; they like their Dacia’s; shop clerks like to get exact change; religion is very important to most people…. And people seem to be surprised that a Canadian would want to come here.  

8.      Do you have some good Romanian friend/s ? 
I think so. 

9.       What was the attitude of Romanians towards you when you first met them? 
Some were curious (“Where are you from? Why are you here?”); some were very welcoming (as mentioned above); and clearly others remained largely indifferent.  In other words, a full range of reactions. 

10.  What is the attitude they have now? Did you notice any change?  
I’m not exactly sure what people think of me here!  Romanians, in general, are hard to read.